The Albayzin

Granada

For many, including myself in the past, Granada means The Alhambra, which stretches along La Sabika presiding over the city, the Sierra Nevada providing a handsome backdrop.  This city has more to offer than this fairy tale fortress, although that is most certainly a highlight.  The vibrant city has an amazing history and handsome looks to go with it – from impressive plazas with fountains to quaint narrow streets hugging the Cathedral and broad boulevards with lovely shops! Rising from the Plaza Nueva the old Muslim quarter, the Albayzin, clambers up the hill in winding, cobbled streets and alleys breaking out to occasional plazas and it’s from some of these plazas (head for the Mirador San Franciso for the best spot)   you are offered fantastic views of the Alhambra and its Sierra Nevada backdrop as well as over the city.  As you walk you are offered glimpses through gates of the carmenes, large mansions with walled gardens, and kept amused at the traffic squeezing its ways through the narrow streets – bus drivers doing so with alarming confidence, you can’t help but breathe in!

Sunset on Alhambra

Of course, the Alhambra called us to Granada and our tickets gave us entry at 2pm ’til 8pm.  We booked our tickets in advance of arriving in Spain and the 1€ fee is worthwhile to ensure you won’t be disappointed (as some friends found themselves to be earlier in the year!), and we collected tickets the night before, as we were staying opposite the booking office, to save on queuing.  I could give a blow by blow account of where we visited, but save to say that we spent a full 6 hours in the Alhambra complex, as the delights within the fortress walls can keep you so easily occupied.  We didn’t have as much time as we would have liked in the Generalife, to wander around it’s pretty gardens which offer shade and refreshment with its hedges, trees, fountains and water channels.

Generalife, Alhambra

We bought a guide book which was helpful but I wish we had bought it the night before so we could read through and plan our route more carefully.

To me the real gem of the Alhambra is the Palacio Nazaries, the most stunning Islamic building in Europe with it’s courtyards, rooms, stucco walls with arabic inscriptions, colourful tiling and carved wooden ceilings.

We were to enter the Palacio at 6pm (they give you an entry time when you book your ticket) and it was a great time to visit.

As I walked into the Mexuar, the council chamber, I felt I was transported back in time. We paused to take in the rooms, the workmanship and then found we would have the space to ourselves as everyone else whisked on to the next room….which was perfect for taking photos!!  The style and architecture is so unlike anything else in Europe (apart from the Alcazar in Seville, built after the Alhambra by the some of the same workmen).  Makes me wonder about the buildings and sites destroyed in Afghanistan and the like….

Patio of the Myrtles, Alhambra

The Patio de los Arrayanes gives some of the idea of the possible tranquility it may have held, with its rectangular pool – now it’s peace is disturbed with the swarm of tourists! We continued to marvel at each room and courtyard we approached, although disappointed with the way the refurb in the Patio de los Leones

Marble Colums of Patio de los Leones

has been dealt with – an obtrusive box covering the marble fountain which channelled water through the mouths of 12 marble lions, the lions removed for restoration work.  The patio is stunning but this box destroys the lines and symmetry of the area, although I appreciate that restoration work is required.

Windows

The tamed sunlight of sunset filtered through the lattice windows of the various rooms letting the patterns and shadows travel around the rooms.  The views out of the windows across the Albayzin were lovely, as the stark white of the buildings were given a rose hue from the sunset.

Arches and Ceilings

Windows

By the time we got to the Jardines del Partal we seemed to be the last ones there, and took in the views and the tranquil setting of this stunning place.

A place to see before you die, most certainly!

Sunset

Jardines del Partal