San Carlos de Bariloche, Patagonia, Argentina

After our mammoth bus trip on the Ruta 40, we arrived at 9pm and as we walked to our accommodation we were astonished to see so many people, shops and restaurants and feel such a buzz after being in such small towns! It took us a while to get our bearings and when we did we realised that Bariloche is a great place to visit, ideal base for renting a place for a week and enjoying all the place can offer.  Ideally situated on the shores of the Lago Nahuel Huapi, although frustratingly not making the most of it, Bariloche can offer all manner of activities and access to the seven lakes, the Lake District as it’s known, and Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi.

It is a strange place for europeans to visit, founded in 1902 by mostly Swiss, German and northen Italians the place wouldn’t look out of place in the Alps, but certainly looks out of place on the shores of a large Argentinian lake! Chocolate shops galore (some as big as supermarkets!)  and chalet style buildings do confuse but there are pleasant areas to seek out, including taking the number 20 bus out to Llao Llao peninsula, otherwise known as the Circuito Chico (small circuit).

Llao Llao Peninsula

View from Llao Llao

The number 20 bus careers it’s way out of the town along the road west out of Bariloche pretty much following the shoreline of the lago and ends at Llao Llao, were the Punto Panoramico gives you views over the water to Chile.  There are a number of bays and walks that you can do, including a walk through the arrayan forrest and it’s popular for people to rent bikes around the 18km mark to explore the peninsula and also take a variety of boat trips from Puerto Panuelo. (There are markings along the road to tell you what km you are at).

Treking to the foot of Tronador

Nahuel Huapi Park Trek

We booked a trek to the base of Tronador mountain through the Mountain Information office, Club Andino Bariloche on Ave 20 de Febrero, 30.  We set off around 8.15am out to the Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi (www.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar), which is Argentina’s first National Park. It took around 2hrs of driving to get to the starting point of our walk, with Alejandra leading the way for our group of 9. The walk was fairly straight forward, nothing too complicated and eventually we reached the base of the mountain with a great view up to the hanging glacier.  As we ate lunch, I noted an arch in the glacier which I thought looked like it would give… and 20 mins later it did! When parts of glacier come off it makes such a spectacular racket, and with a 400m fall it was like fireworks as the ice fell then crashed and exploded against the rocks of the mountain.  Three times we were given this spectacular and dramatic show, which is most unusual. Alejandra told us that normally you wouldn’t be able to see the top of the mountain as it would be covered in ice, but for the past couple of years the top has been visible as the glacier has receded. The walk back was given an added boost as we could hear a Woodpecker, then we got to see him – first time I have seen and heard a Woodpecker! Nothing like Woody!! What a racket they make! Amazing.

Lago Traful

Lago Traful

A few locals had said that out of the seven lakes that make up the Lake District their favourite is Lago Traful.  With that in mind we hired a car, through the very helpful Lagos Rent a Car, and set off for the day.  You head out of town and take the Ruta 40 then at Confluencia take a right onto the “tourist route”,Route 65, which is basically an unsealed dirt road! On the way there you pass some lovely valleys including the Valle Encantado, Enchanted Valley, then the road becomes pleasant but hardly the most wonderful scenery…until you get to the Lago Traful.  Sapphire waters becon you to discover its shores which are protected by mountains all around, like a hidden secret.  The village of Villa Traful is to be envied for  its stunning location on the shores of this crystal clear lake.  With small bays all around it would be worth bringing a picnic and the intention to while away a few hours.  We did find it interesting just how many wasps there were.  We stopped at a few bays but ended up diving for cover in the car to get away from the wasps!

Tranquil Traful

We then headed past Lago Correntoso, made a brief stop at a bay overlooking Lago Espejo and then headed for the wee town of Villa Angostura.  We met a man offering sailing trips on the Nahuel Huapi.  Unfortunately we didn’t have enough time as it was early evening and we needed to return the car, but had we time we would have loved to give it a go! He would take you out, show you the ropes as well as giving an opportunity to see some islands on the lake (www.patagoniasailing.com.ar).  Returning on the Route 231 we got lovely views over the lake and then across the water to Bariloche and it’s majestic mountains.

When we returned the car an older gentleman was waiting for assistance at the Lago Rent a Car office.  He overheard us say that we had been to Lago Traful, he asked us what we thought and we told him we thought it was beautiful.  He told us that he’d been there for his anniversary 50 years ago, camping! He asked where we were from, and when the Kiwi said New Zealand he told us that he played against the All Blacks many years ago! He’d been a Puma, playing for Argentina!! He was a handsome and fit man for a 70 year old, with a sparkle in his stunning blue eyes and a firm handshake!!

Bariloche is a ski resort in winter and in summer is an ideal base for many excursions and trips as well as activities.  There are a vast number of trekking trips to be made in the area, requiring overnight stays in refuges, as well as sailing, cycling, horse riding, sight seeing and eating lots of chocolate!  Hopefully if we return we will find that a better use has been made of areas by the shore of the lake for people to spend time watching the sun set!

Map of Bariloche click here

One of many Chocolate Shops