For the uninitiated, Buenos Aires is the home of Tango. As a tourist there are so many opportunities to see Tango, it can make your head spin! Not a fan of tourist traps, dinner-shows and the like, we tried to seek out the local view of Tango. Of course, like most countries, you will find some locals who don’t like Tango, never go to Milongas or know how to dance Tango, which is hardly surprising. That said, Tango is never too far away from you in Buenos Aires.
We had an interest in Tango already, having been to some dance lessons in Edinburgh. We are past beginner stage, but only just! We went to the Confiteria Ideal, but having met a grumpy and rude waiter who shooed us off the elegant but tired premises telling us we weren’t allowed to just watch for 5 mins, we decided to seek friendlier Tango venues for lessons.
Tango shoes
And so to Tango Brujo on Esmerelda 754. A fabulous shop is found on the ground floor, which supplies dancing clothes and the most stunning Tango Shoes for men and women. On the first floor is the dance studio, and from Monday to Saturday you can find various classes running for various levels. Classes cost $15, or you can buy a card which gives you 4 classes, 8 classes, etc for a better price. There are a variety of teachers with, of course, a variety of teaching styles and suggestions.
For us, some of the best classes came in our last couple of weeks, particularly from Adriana Dure and Karo Pizzo and another from Anibal Montenegro and his partner. Their focus on technicque was fabulous and I felt we made so much more progress as a result.
The classes change, it seems, monthly so pop into the store to get the latest programme. Also worth checking out is the magazine El Tangauta. Teachers will also make recommendations for Milongas that are planned, we went along to one at a community centre. Fabulous. Even if you are not going to dance, it’s worth going along to one to watch.
If you have no interest in dancing Tango but are in Buenos Aires and want to just have a look, then head to Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo on a Sunday evening. There is a market fair held around the area on Sundays and as the stall holders pack up in the square after 5pm, dancers arrive and take over, with locals having a dance and some teachers coming along to provide a bit of a show for 1/2hr or so. Definately worth seeing and experiencing. When we were there Jorge Risso and his partner entertained us.
Another Tango hot spot is “La Catedral” on Sarmiento 4006, and classes are held there from 8pm to 10pm and then there is a milonga. Be warned, turning up there at night you will find the building rather unassuming and industrial, and could be put off – like we were! Don’t be!
Second pair!
As for shoes, well, I did a bit of shopping around. Head to Suipaca if you want to have a look at a selection of shoe shops, and I have heard tale of Comme il Faut as being the Blanik of Tango Shoes, but for me Tango Brujo’s selection of beautiful, light, flexible Tango shoes hit the spot! Two pairs of shoes for me, one pair for the Kiwi. If you pay cash, and buy two pairs at the same time ask for a discount! There are three heel heights available and a mixture of styles and colours… all gorgeous and wonderful to dance in. I wore my shoes straight after buying them for a 1 1/2 hr lesson and didn’t have any problems with them rubbing or hurting, which is just ideal. Love my shoes!
